If you have an older car that doesn’t contain a CD player or want to update your stock CD player to include MP3 capabilities, personally installing a head unit in your car is quick, easy and fairly inexpensive if you have the proper know-how.

First off, you’ll need to buy a head unit, a wire harness and a dash kit (only if the head unit you bought isn’t a “direct fit,” meaning you’ll need the dash kit to help your head unit fit snuggly into the dash), all of which you can find at Wal-Mart, Best Buy,
 
 
Circuit City or Tweeter. Popular brands of head units are Clarion, Pioneer, Kenwood and Aiwa.

Tool-wise, you’ll need a butt connector, crimpers, a stripper, an adjustable wrench, a flattened Phillips screwdriver and possibly a socket set, depending on what kind of car you have. Most cars manufactured by General Motors or Mopar and most foreign will require the use of a socket set to pull the dash cover off if it is connected with bolts.

Once you’ve bought all the necessary materials, you’re ready to get started.

1. Start by disconnecting the battery in your car by taking the adjustable wrench and loosening the nut on the positive side and pulling the positive terminal (or wire) off.

2. Remove the dash cover. Though many dash covers are attached with clips or screws, some are attached with bolts. Depending on how your dash is attached, you’ll either need the use of a flattened Phillips screwdriver (screws) or a socket set (bolts).

3. Once the dash cover is removed, you can connect the wire harness to the head unit. Follow the directions that came with the wire harness. Simply, you’ll need to match the wire colors on the wire harness to the wires on the head unit.

4. Then, you’ll need to crimp both sets of wires together with a butt connector and a crimper. Before placing the wires in the butt connector, though, you’ll need to strip the wires first. Stripping the wires consists of taking the stripper about an eighth of an inch from the end of the wire and squeezing the stripper, pulling the coating off.

5. Put the head unit in the dash kit. Again, you can skip this step if you bought a “direct fit” head unit.

So you want to upgrade your car stereo? This is something that many people decide to do after buying their car. At this point, you would want to look for the best stereo you can purchase.

A car sound system is an easy thing to replace if you know what you are doing. Better options for your stereo components are available and can be easily installed. As you start to look for these options, you will notice that the number that are available is numerous if you search online for the right stereo to upgrade the car’s audio system.

Sometimes when you buy a vehicle, the sound system is not up to your exhausting standards. Since you will want to upgrade the system, the accessories will need to be bought separately since they were not installed on the assembly line and available at the time of purchase. This is the same for many parts of the car, but especially true for the audio system.

To upgrade the basic audio system in your vehicle, you will either need to do it yourself or have professionals do it for you. If you have decided to install it yourself, you will need to go find the parts yourself. The parts can be found at your local car stereo shop. You can buy these components there or you could go online and purchase them there. Shopping online for these parts means that you can find them quickly and purchase them easily.

Online shopping is a big advantage for you as it allows you to compare prices, find the best deals and get fast shipping to your house. The clearance deals are found online and allow you to get rock bottom prices for components that are top of the line. Many times, you can get overnight shipping so you not only get the best deal, but the part is on your doorstep the next day.

One thing you can also count on is this. By going to manufacturer’s websites you will be able to find many models that are just being rolled out into the marketplace and are not in the brick and mortar stores yet.

A quick way to improve your car’s stereo is to add subwoofers and high range tweeters. Most standard speakers cover the mid range decently well. Adding a subwoofer will make sure your low range (or bass) is solid. Adding a high range ( or treble) tweeter is also a good idea as well. This wil lensure that you have the low, mid and high ranges covered. buy Car stereo with payday advance.

If you search online to get a good deal and make sure the installation is done correctly, you will be satisified with your decision to transform your drab audio system into a powerhouse

Car audio components are being improved each passing day to upgrade sound systems. If one does not opt for these improved components, then one might just be living in the past. These improved components add greater functionality to your car audio system.

These components are speakers, subwoofers, tweeters, amplifiers, ipod adapters and more. All these add another dimension to your audio system. You have the option of settling for your factory installed system, however, aftermarket systems are massively superior to factory systems. But that’s by the way.

To take your car audio to another level, you’ll need to add new speakers, upgrade your receiver, add tweeters, add an amplifier, install vibration dampers like dynamat, install bass blockers on your full-range component speakers, add equalizers and other signal processors — the list goes on…

Adding new speakers to your audio system will alter your setup most dramatically (if done right). This is because your speakers are the most important units in your car audio set up. Also know that you need to add such that will fit your vehicle. This will prevent sound inbalance or damage to your audio system. What you install is what you get. If you install old age-stricken stuff, then you get old age-stricken sound.

Adding tweeters to your sound system improves your listening experience. A tweeter takes care of those sizzling highs that cannot be catered for by regular speakers. A crossover will help make your output stage a lot better.

Upgrading your receivers will ensure better sound and less distortion. This could include adding additional music sources like a portable DVD, a satellite radio tuner and more; through an auxiliary input.

You also need vibration dampers. Dynamats absorb the vibration caused by your car speakers and road noise. When these vibrations are absorbed, you can conveniently hear the music that comes out of your sound system without background noise.

If you’re in for the best sound, you’ll need to add a bass blocker. Installing bass blockers on your full range component speakers simply help to block the bass frequencies that your speakers cannot handle. They are installed on your speaker’s wire. This helps remove distortion from your music.

Other steps you could take to improve your car audio output include making sure your subwoofers and speakers are in phase, changing the position or enclosure style of your subwoofer and avoiding extreme bass control boost.

Your subwoofers and speakers wired in phase helps give more balance to your sound. Make sure the positive and the negative sides are wired accordingly at both the receiver and the speakers.

Changing the enclosure style of your subwoofer actually depends on the type of bass sound you prefer. Some prefer a boomy bass; others prefer a low frequency bass. The position of your subwoofer will determine that.

Avoiding extreme bass control boost and turning up your volume instead will give less distortion to your signals.

Implement these and your car audio will never remain the same.

So you got tired of the OEM car sound system did you ? This car audio review will go over the key factors to consider in selecting the car stereo system that will meet your needs. Before discussing the individual components of a car stereo system here is a word of advice … broughtto you by the CarAccessoriesMagazine !! Don’t jump on next week’s sale, don’t rush your car audio review process, take your time, talk to friends, sales people, installers and get a goodfeel for what you really want. This car audio review will hopefully give you a head start.

IN DASH RECEIVER

In any car audio review, the most common question that people considering a change of car stereo system ask : will anaftermarket radio fit into my vehicle ? And the answer is … (roll the drums) … YES, becausethere are a variety of aftermarket kits available to adapt just about any aftermarket radio toyour vehicle.

AMPLIFIERS

The location of the amplifiers in the vehicle is not critical, as long as they have enoughair flow and are mounted on a dry surface. If you install the amps yourself you will needa kit consisting of power wire, ground wire, RCA, remote turn on lead and a fuse. Crimpersand a drill are all the tools required.

CAR SPEAKERS

There are two types of CAR speakers available : the dual cone and the two way. A dual cone has a small paper cone built into a larger paper cone. A two way actually mounts a separate tweeter on the larger paper cone. This allows for more frequency response and better sound quality. You will need to check the fit of your new speakers with your vehicle. You can take off your speaker cover and measure it. Make sure you get the depth if you can. Not all cars can accommodate speakers with a larger magnet.

HEAD UNIT

You should also consider other important but often overlooked features in going through your car audio review. Many models offer detachable faceplates. This security feature will only work if you actually remove the faceplate. Some models have a plate that rotates when you turn off the vehicle, which makes it look like it’s been removed.

Another feature is an automatic volume control : the system automatically adjusts the radio volume up or down, depending on the vehicle’s speed and the varying amount of road and wind noise in the vehicle.

Look for a unit that has large buttons versus small. Large buttons are easier to find and use. The radio should cause a minimum amount of distraction so the driver can keep his eyes and attention on the road. If you want to push this idea to the limit try to find a radio with greater spacing between the buttons. This makes the radio easier and safer to use as well.

The last head unit feature to discuss in our car audio review is the radio display. Large numbers and a clear readout is another reason for an enjoyable listening experience. Also, look for a radio that shows not only the radio station call number but also the time and preset number.

Check speaker phase! The speakers in your system should all be firing in phase — simply put, all the cones should be moving out and in at the same time. If they’re not, you lose bass response, making your system sound anemic and unfocused. It’s important to check all your speakers, even if your system was professionally installed. 

To determine if a pair of speakers in your vehicle are in phase, listen to some bass-heavy music with your stereo’s balance control all the way to one side. Now return the balance control to the center — you should hear significantly more bass. If you don’t, your speakers are out of phase. Switch the positive and negative leads on a single speaker, and try again. If you hear more bass, leave it! Check the front and rear speakers independently in this manner.

Turn on your subwoofer system. Reverse the speaker wires going to your sub and listen for a change in bass response. Again, if it gets louder, leave it! (Make sure that multiple subs are wired in phase with each other.) 

Flatten it out! Especially if you have a sub, it may be tempting to crank up the bass on your receiver. Tune your system first with the receiver EQ set flat — all tone controls at “0″ and no EQ curve engaged. With the subwoofer off, turn some familiar music up to a moderate listening level, then slowly increase the subwoofer output until you hit the “sweet spot” — the place where the bass really kicks in without overwhelming the rest of the music. 

If the bass sounds like it’s coming from behind you, lower the sub amp’s crossover point to “de-localize” the bass. If your amp has a non-adjustable crossover, try moving the subwoofer. For example, if it’s firing toward the rear, turn it around so it fires forward or sideways (remember to check your phase again with the sub in its final position). 

Listen and experiment! Your system should create a “soundstage” — close your eyes and you should hear the instruments in front of you, arranged from far right to far left, with (if you’re listening to rock’n'roll) the kick drum, bass guitar, and lead vocal right dead center. 

Some vehicles make it tough to establish a strong front soundstage:

If your car has small front speakers, install some Bass Blockers. They’ll filter out the low frequencies so your speakers will play louder and clearer, bringing the soundstage back in front of you. If your receiver has built-in crossover capability, use its high-pass filter to remove low bass from smaller speakers for improved performance.

If you have a subwoofer (or larger speakers in the back), use your receiver’s fader to move the music forward and then turn up the overall level to bring the bass back into play.

If your front speakers are mounted low in the doors, some receivers feature independent front/rear tone controls or signal processing that raises the front image. Or, if possible, install a set of tweeters in front.
Instead of cranking the bass way up to increase your system’s impact, raise the bass a little bit and lower the highs and mids. It’s smart to keep equalization to a minimum — pumping up the bass control just robs your system of its effective power.

First rate bass!

1. System sounds dull? Put a set of tweeters up front to strengthen your front image and add liveliness to your sound. Many receivers feature signal processing (BBE, DSO, MediaXpander, etc.) or extensive equalization which can do a lot to improve a dull-sounding system.     

2. Vocals and instruments sound buried? If your receiver has a midrange control, boost it up a little bit; if it includes a parametric EQ, try adding a little bump in the 400-1000 Hz range. Replace your rear full-range speakers with some high-quality midrange speakers to bring out warmth and detail without adding more sizzle. Installing Dynamat (or any sound-absorbing material) in your vehicle will reduce road noise which masks crucial midrange details.     

3. System too bright? If your front speakers have swiveling tweeters, aim them away from you. If you have installed component tweeters, check the crossovers for output level switching — a drop of 3 dB can make a huge difference in the way your tweeters match up to the rest of the system. Experiment with your receiver’s EQ. If that doesn’t nail it, consider a receiver with more equalization control or (for an amplified system) an outboard equalizer.

Think ahead! Once you’ve taken the time to adjust the system, then you’ll know if you’ve made smart purchases. Always buy with an eye to the future — you might be saving 40 bucks on your receiver, but what’s the point if it’s missing some crucial features you’ll be needing when you expand your system? If you plan on adding a sub to your system later, spend a little more on a multi-channel amp (instead of a 2-channel) so you can power your front speakers and subs with one amp. Don’t install 10-gauge power wire if your ultimate goal is a throbbin’ multi-amp system. With the right components and some careful adjustments, your car can be a fantastic place to listen to music.

In just about any digital audio system there are demands for 110Ω to 75Ω and 75Ω to 110Ω impedance conversion. In fact there are many applications for the Graham-Patten AES to AES3id and AES3id to AES digital audio impedance converters. This is a tool to keep on hand, to be instantly available when a need arises.

Graham-Patten Systems make the highest quality audio impedance converters on the market today. I’ve heard people say, “So what? It’s only a simple balun impedance converting transformer.”

picture 1 .ATS-10: The DATS-10 accepts AES balanced digital audio at 110Ω (5 to 7 V) and outputs AES3id unbalanced 75Ω (1V).

picture 2. DATS-21: The DATS-21 accepts AES3id unbalanced digital audio at 75Ω and outputs balanced 110Ω AES.

Okay, but the design of the transformer is critical to maintaining balance, impedance, and bandwidth. Failure or poor performance in any of these parameters will without doubt cause poor performance through the digital audio path, especially where multiple impedance conversion has been necessary through a longer than normal or tortuous signal path.

We should also remember that when converting from 110/75Ω we have AES in at 2-7Vpp and AES3id out at 1Vpp. It is essential that the proper attenuation be built into the converter to ensure that there is no over voltage at the output of the device. This allows us to use normal video 75Ω distribution techniques and equipment for the distribution of digital audio signals.

So what’s so clever about the Graham-Patten DATS converters? Simply put, it’s the size of the units, and the critical design of the balun transformer. The Graham-Patten DATS are the only converters built using standard XLR shells mated with standard, high quality BNC connectors. I should also have mentioned that they are rugged, too! The balun transformer is designed to meet very precise parameters for this specific application.

In order to help keep installations neat and tidy, we also offer the Graham-Patten DATS panels. These are 19” rack mount panels to which up to eight DATS of any gender can be mounted or even inter-mixed on custom jobs. We also added a cable tie bar at the back of the panel. However, what is slick is that the panel itself is punched out of FR4 material – thus it is insulated from ground ensuring that ground is carried through the DATS converters only.

Following is more information from the DATS Converters datasheet: